Skinceuticals Blemish + Age Defense Serum Review

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My 45-year old oily skin has started to dry up with age, but I still get a few annoying spots along my jawline and eyebrows. Adult acne is much more challenging to treat than teenage acne because the bumps are trapped deep under the skin’s surface and don’t respond to spot zappers like benzoyl peroxide, which works by drying out the surface. (Don’t even bother trying to squeeze adult acne!)

If you have the same concerns, here’s my review of Skinceuticals Blemish + Age Defense Serum.

Brand overview: Skinceuticals

Skinceuticals are of my favourite brands because they are just so innovative. I wonder how often various competitors have copied their C E Ferulic Serum?

Way ahead of their time in terms of sunscreens and antioxidants, Skinceuticals is one of the few brands that has created a high UVA sunscreen that feels cosmetically elegant instead of thick and sticky. I know because I have tried them all!

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What is Skinceuticals Blemish + Age Defense Serum?

This serum kills two birds with one stone: it exfoliates dead skin blocking the pores and fades sunspots at the same time.

Who is it for?

Suitable for oily, blemish-prone, ageing skin suffering from the double whammy of adult acne and pigmentation.

Texture?

Liquid.

How does it fit into my routine?

I used it every evening after double cleansing and before a very hydrating night cream.

Skin before using Skinceuticals Blemish + Age Defense Serum
My skin before using Skinceuticals Blemish + Age Defense Serum

How long before you see results?

I used it for six weeks on the right hand side of my face only so that I could compare results – and I was pleasantly surprised to see a difference after only three weeks.

After a tiny bit of purging on my nose and forehead, my skin is now a lot less bumpy than it has been in ages. My skin is more even-toned because it helped fade the red marks left after adult acne. Even colleagues commented that my skin looked smoother and less oily. 

My skin is more even-toned because it helped fade the red marks left after adult acne. Even colleagues commented that my skin looked smoother and less oily. I personally did not find the high alcohol content drying, but I still wish that Skinceuticals would find a less drying alternative.

Skin - six weeks after using Skinceuticals Blemish + Age Defense Serum
My skin, 6 weeks after using Skin before using Skinceuticals Blemish + Age Defense Serum

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Pros

As a beauty therapist, I love the selection of exfoliating acids in this serum – these are far more effective and gentle than grainy physical ones. Skinceuticals have formulated it at the right pH (3-4) for exfoliation.

Cons

The high amount of alcohol. Whilst it does help glycolic acid penetrate the skin more effectively, alcohol is just too drying, especially for sensitive skin.

Active ingredients:

3.5% Glycolic acid: hydrates and dissolves dead skin simultaneously. Penetrates more deeply than other Ahas, so very effective but not suitable for those with sensitive skin.

2% Diodic acid: fatty acid and anti-inflammatory which fades pigmentation. Also, a beneficial cell-communicating ingredient. Although there is not much evidence relating to diodic acid, I trust Skinceuticals, but they need to do more research. I don’t know if it helps fade pigmentation because I have obsessively applied sunscreen since I was eighteen.

1.5% Salicylic acid: a Bha which cuts through oil and clears out the pores. Can be irritating and drying, especially when mixed with alcohol – take note, Skinceuticals!

0.3% LHA (lipo-hydroxy acid derived from salicylic acid). I think we will be hearing a lot more about LHAs, which are far more gentle than AHAs.

Would I buy Skinceuticals Blemish + Age Defense Serum?

Yes, definitely because of the outstanding results. However, I challenge Skinceuticals to find a more gentle alternative to alcohol.

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