Pha Exfoliation: Review of Neostrata Bionic Cream

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Neostrata Bionic Cream (Pha 12%) forms part of the Restore range, which provides ‘powerful anti-ageing benefits for sensitive skin’.


Do I use it in my salon?

It is so gentle that I use it to calm inflammation after peels. I also recommend it for clients using retinoids for the first time to cope with the initial dryness.

What is it?

Exfoliating moisturiser (12% Pha).

What is Pha exfoliation?

8% Gluconolactone (3rd ingredient).

4% Lactobionic acid (4th ingredient).

Phas are the more gentle cousin of Ahas – chemical exfoliants that gently dissolve the glue that sticks dead skin cells to the skin’s surface.

No physical scrubbing is needed! Phas have a larger molecular structure than Ahas (so they penetrate more slowly and cause less irritation), and they are also natural humectants which help keep the skin hydrated.

Admittedly there is not much research into Phas, but I trust Neostrata.

Admittedly there is not much research into Phas, but I trust Neostrata.

Which skin type?

The Bionic Cream has the richest texture of all the Restore range – almost like a balm. Best for normal to dry and dry skins.

Controversial ingredients?

  • Non-comedogenic – but gave my oily skin spots
  • No parabens
  • Fragrance-free

How does it smell?

My clients all hate the smell!

Read More:


Yes – the 2nd ingredient. Very silicone-based, which is a shame.

I challenge Neostrata to make a silicone-free moisturiser!

I can see a big difference between clients who use silicone-based products and those who use plant oils. Silicones form a film like clingfilm over the top but do not actually penetrate and strengthen the barrier long-term – plant oils are more effective.

Meadowfoam seed oil is an excellent oil which calms irritation and hydrates – if only there was more of it.

How does it feel?


How long before you see results?

My husband has been using it to calm his reddened, flaking skin following a psoriasis outbreak.
First of all, his GP prescribed Betnovate RD steroid cream for seven days to calm the inflammation.
However, it is hard to persuade a man to moisturise twice a day, let alone use a serum as well.
For seven days and nights, I nagged him into the following routine:
Before using Neostrata Bionic Face Cream

A mans skin before using Neostrata Bionic Face Cream
Before using Neostrata Bionic Face Cream

Routine AM

  1. Simple Kind to Skin Micellar Cleanser
  2. Neostrata Bionic Cream

Routine PM

  1. Simple Kind to Skin Micellar Cleanser
  2. Neostrata Bionic Serum
  3. Neostrata Bionic Cream

On the nights he was too tired to follow the routine, I threatened to put it on myself.
At the end of the week, the flaking on the forehead was much improved, but he still had a bit around the nostrils. The redness will take longer.

A mans skin after using Neostrata Bionic Face Cream
After using Neostrata Bionic Face Cream


Neostrata is a true innovator -all their products contain chemical exfoliants.
So many anti-ageing products can leave sensitive skin inflamed and irritated, but Bionic Cream intensely hydrates yet gently exfoliates. It fills a gap in the market.


Silicones! Clients love the texture of silicone-based creams because they do not leave a sticky residue, but they are a quick fix and do nothing to strengthen the skin’s barrier long-term.

Would I repurchase?

I am trying to persuade him to buy it for himself next time!

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